You can view all of the posts on the pellet stove.
When I wrote the Part 1 post, I had already learned that I was missing an adapter to connect the vent to the pellet stove. I am going to Fredericton in the morning to get it.
The story behind the story on that is that when I ordered the pellet stove I also ordered a vent kit for it. The pellet stove came in 2 days after I ordered it, but the vent kit did not. The folks at the store where I ordered the stove spent 2 days trying to find a kit somewhere in Canada in their distribution channel and failing that, when some might arrive in Canada. They were not able to find that out, so, I told them I’d see if I could find one over the weekend and I’d let them know on Monday whether or not to cancel the order. I did find one via the telephone over the weekend and arranged to pick it up locally on last Thursday.
When I called on Last Friday to ask about the adapter I was expecting that I would just be able to pick one up on Saturday. The folks where I bought the vent were not familiar with it and I had to get Andrea to look up the part number. They looked it up, and I was able to arrange ordering. The line of pellet stoves that they sell are designed to connect to the vent without the adapter. So, that’s something to keep in mind to check about the pellet stove since most of the ones that I’ve seen pictures of have the same exhaust outlet as the one we purchased.
Even though I knew at the beginning of last weekend that I would not be able to completely install the vent, the missing adapter did not prevent me from working on the install at all. Prior to the weekend, Andrea and I had moved the pellet stove (weighs about 230 lbs) into what would be a rough guess at its final location. This is somewhat dictated by the vent requirements (at least 4′ from any door or window, at least 18″ above grade, etc.). And once it was there, it looked right, if you know what I mean. In it’s rough position, we haven’t pushed it close to any of the tolerances (i.e minimum distance to walls, etc.) so we will be able to adjust it to a good fit for the vent. I did a bit of math to ensure that I would be in a position to make some final adjustments. but I’ll save that for another post.
Last Saturday, I was away for about 8 hours which put a bit of a dent in the work time for the weekend. But I chose Saturday for that because it was supposed to rain most of the day (which it did). On Saturday night I removed all of the remaining plaster needed to install the thimble and remeasured using the partially assembled vent to ensure that I was on target.
Installing the thimble requires that the opening in the wall be framed in. The issue that I wanted to deal with before I started framing the hole was keeping the cellulose insulation above the opening from falling into the opening while I worked. The interior wood wall made this easier, but the same approach could be used with the sheathing on the outside of the house. This is the basic process I followed:
- I drilled 3 3/16″ holes above that square that I was going to cut out.
- Using a spade bit, I drilled a 1″ hole at each upper corner of the square to be cut out.
- Using a reciprocating saw, I cut a rough 1″ hole across the top of the square between the 2 holes made with the spade bit.
- I cut 2 pieces of double strength corrigated cardboard about the length of the hole (9″) and 1/4″ narrower that the depth of the wall cavity. (This implies that I measured the cavity to see how deep it was.)
- I put the first piece of cardboard in through the hole and pushed it lengthwise until one end of it was up against the stud on one side of the opening.
- I put the second piece of cardboard in and pushed it against the opposite stud.
- Finally, I pushed the cardboard up above the 3 holes drilled in the first step and pushed a 4″ spike into each of the 3 holes drilled in the first step.
- The result looked like this:
On the inside wall, the 9″ opening was cut out of the middle of a single board which is at least 12″ wide. I lucked out in choosing this this spot for the vent because the board had a crack near the bottom where the opening was going to go. So, for the next step I did not have to drill the bottom corners with the spade bit. Following the template I’d drawn on the board, I cut the sides of the opening down to the crack and removed the rectangle of board. The insulation behind it looked like this:
To complete the framing in:
- I removed the insulation to about an inch below the bottom line of the template and about an inch to the left of the opening and put it into a grabage bag. (The opening is deliberately about 1/2″ from a stud on the right.)
- I cleaned up the hole using the reciprocating saw to square up the 3 sides already rough cut and cut the bottom line.
- I cut the 3 pieces to frame in the hole.
- After dry fitting the frame, I pushed the top of the frame up against the 4″ spikes and pulled the spikes out of the wall.
- After getting the top frame piece in its final position, I drilled 2 pilot holes above the opening and used 2 wood screws to secure it in place.
- With the bottom piece of the frame being held roughly in place by the insulation under it, I secured the side using 2 pilot holes and wood screws.
- Note: I added a temporary wood screw to the side and bottom to make it easier to maneuver them once they were inside the wall cavity.
- Finally, secured the bottom piece of the frame using 2 pilot holes and wood screws.
- Once the opening is cut in the outer sheathing, the framing will be secured to that, the existing stud and to the other pieces of the frame.
- Here’s the final result of the weekend’s work: